Jesus don’t like killing

‘Your flag decal won’t get you into Heaven anymore,

Their already over-crowded from your dirty little war.

Now Jesus don’t like killing no matter what the reasons for,

And your flag decal won’t get you into Heaven anymore’- John Pine

Everything has gone to Hell in a handcart thanks to the dementia ridden, golf cheat, sexual assaulter and alleged paedophile Commander-in-Chief of the United States military; and his insider trading corrupt cabal of coke-addled cronies. And Neytenyahu. Good job lads.

Throughout my time travelling these past four months, and especially over the last week or so here in Sri Lanka, I’ve been seeking out the different religious sites to see how others around the world worship and demonstrate their faith. It’s been at times mystifying, at others mystical. Sometimes very inspiring, sometimes quite odd seeming. Visiting the church in Colombo which as recently as 2019 suffered an appalling terrorist attack which murdered dozens of innocent worshipers was uniquely powerful. Heart wrenching but also inspiring to see how the bomb, the slaughter of the innocent, did nothing to destroy the love to be found inside those open church doors, and served to strengthen to resolve of those left behind.

It has been reported that at least 153 people, most of them school children. Girls and young women who were reading, learning, and bettering themselves were obliterated in a missile strike in Iran.

The people responsible will not be held responsible or be made to account for their crimes in this life. I pray that they will be found a particularly warm place in Hell (alongside Putin, the Ayatollah, and the rest of the scum who at this time are the masters of our universe and of war.)

Smitten for Sri Lanka

It feels rather gross to shift gears from that into a travel blog so I shall keep this relatively short and sweet.

I have fallen head over heels in love with Sri Lanka. It is genuinely the most beautiful country I have ever had the privilege of laying my eyes on. I have long preached the mantra of aways endeavouring to fall in love once a week, and have my heart broken once a month, and I am truly smitten.

The food is incredible, the people are warm and welcoming, the books are brilliant, and the local beer more than does the job as well.

Depending on how things pan out, I have a sneaky suspicion Sri Lanka may have trumped Vietnam for the return leg of this adventure…

Just one more thing: Colombo

The capital of Colombo isn’t one where travellers spend a lot of time but plumping for three nights in Colombo was a great call. Spent the first day ambling about and lounging by the beach, and the second day visiting all the different holy sites with the hope of joining in some celebrations for the Holi festival. No such luck on that front but took the time to take in the old Parliament building, treasury, the aforementioned church, and the temples that dot the city.

Despite my well-rehearsed dislike of the format, we found a spot for the first of the t20 world cup semi finals between New Zealand and South Africa in the city’s fanzone (recommended to us by some chaps we were sat next to over dinner, and who let me watch the first 10 overs over their shoulders on the phone.) The food here is truly outstanding and that has been a recurring theme since arriving in Colombo.

Feeding trunks with bags in the trunk: Elephant sanctuary

Breaking up the journey between Colombo and Kandy was a stop off at the state-run elephant orphanage and sanctuary, a sanctuary which commits to being more ethical and kinder to the animals than other sites on the island. I’m sure there are questions as to how kind the place actually is to the elephants but unlike many of the other advertised parks, there is no riding elephants or other such bullshit.

Tis true what they say: nature- it’s fucking lit.

A sweet tooth for Kandy

Arriving into Kandy, I had been concerned that, given its well-earned reputation as a beautiful spot, it would be overrun with tourists like me. It wasn’t so. The town is alive with locals, markets, and pilgrims heading to the sacred temple of the tooth; with only a few of us tourists dotted about.

The homestay was high up in the mountains which was good for my calves, and our hosts were incredibly generous and kind. So too was the young woman next door who, having compared notes on Taylor Swift and the Beatles, invited us in for a game of Uno. My first game of uno, probs my last to be honest.

The city itself had plenty going on and as mentioned, the food was terrific. In addition to walking the lake and visiting the relic site, we visited the first methodist church of the trip. The Kandy view point was the perfect place to capture a gorgeous sunset.

Note: I am well aware that methodism is not keen on the consumption of alcohol. Well aware.

We took a break from the tourist sites to enjoy a night at the pictures with the frankly bonkers ‘The Bride!’. I was particularly taken with the repeated public service announcements before the film about good screening etiquette and behaviour. 

In the outside World, the botanical gardens were expansive, incredibly well-looked after, and populated by all manner of wildlife.

Went to one of the few/only pubs to watch England and India put on an absolutely thrilling contest in the other t20 semi-final, losing by only 7 runs to a powerhouse Indian batting performance. Got chatting to a bloke and shared some beers with him only to see him sat at the breakfast table of the same homestay the next morning!

Gone posh in Nuwara Eliya

For the second time this trip (see Sydney entry) I find myself writing this entry from a plush hotel rooftop, overlooking the mountains. Thanks, again, EC colleagues. Those vouchers are a God send.

Right in the heart of beautiful tea country, I’ve taken two days of doing sod all bar reading, swimming, and lounging in the pool (with a 55-minute session on the treadmill to combat the travel podge.) The train line is unfortunately absolutely scuppered by the November storms, so travel has been limited to beautiful if winding roads through and above the mountains.

Nuwara Eliya has been the perfect little break from this much more extended break.

Wash up…

I’ve finished reading ‘The Anarchy’, a history of the East India company. Brilliant, pacy history. I’ve nearly finished the Booker prize winner from 2022, a Sri Lankan book titled ‘The Seven Moons of Maali Almeida.’ It’s brilliant- will be posting it home rather than leaving it at the next homestay.

And finally- I am thrilled to report that the long running fiasco I had of securing my India visa is now officially null and void. I needed a paper one for the ferry from Sri Lanka into India, a ferry which hasn’t been running in any case, but which wouldn’t be running given the naval activity off of the coast.

So that’s terrific.